Big producer doesn’t mean bad wine. This Nouveau from the giant of Beaujolais is as good as the artisanal ones I used to try.

The intensity is off the charts here, it jumps out of the glass. A fruit bomb in a good, savoury way. Loaded with black cherries, blueberries and the like, intensified by the banana aromas of carbonic maceration. So juicy and vibrant, the texture is velvety, crisp acidity gives it a lift. Dangerously easy to drink, but it’s far from being a simple quaffer. I love it.