Grál Borpince (borpince means winery in Hungarian) is a relatively new, promising producer from the Tolnai wine region, which borders it’s more famous neighbor Szekszárd from the north. They have just a few hectares of grapes and the aim is artisanal wine production. The wines are often very good, but I was less happy with these two vintages of the Kadarka.

The 2016 is a textbook Kadarka. Red currants, rose hips and some spice on the nose. It’s fragrant, easy drinking, but probably a bit too simple and short. Restrained – I wish for more intensity. The balance is good, though, the crisp acidity is quite integrated. 83 points.

The new vintage, 2017 is a different story, it’s quite unusual for Kadarka. It turns out that some old clone material was also used for this cuvée, that must be the reason. Almost Chianti-like, just a bit lighter. Dark, tannic, angular. Acidity is high, too. It’s just disjointed at this point but very interesting for sure. That sour cherry and aniseeds nose is so different from the generally red fruited Kadarka. What I don’t like is that it’s not perfectly clean. Might get better with time, hold it. 80 points.